K-beauty: The new beauty revolution - Korean-beauty

Van Roth Skincare: A revolution in skincare

As the founders of Van Roth Skincare, we have been part of the global skincare revolution that originated in K-beauty. Our philosophy is to provide customers with a customized skincare routine with products that are not only innovative but also deliver visible results. By focusing on effective ingredients and a carefully balanced formula, we can proudly say that almost 98% of our products have shown impressive results, from improved skin texture to a more radiant and youthful glow.

In a recent interview, we shared our journey and vision of how we have managed to create a skincare line that is inspired by K-beauty, but with a strong anchoring in our own values ​​and needs in the market. We believe that it is precisely the combination of quality, effectiveness and passion that makes Van Roth Skincare a brand that truly makes a difference.

Innovative and disruptive, K-beauty (for Korean beauty) has revolutionized beauty standards with new rituals, lightweight textures, affordable formulas and a ten-step routine (layering) that guarantees the famous Korean glow, a unique, radiant skin tone. This method, which satisfies the desire to “take time for yourself” – a need that became more evident during the pandemic – has become a point of reference for consumers and a source of inspiration for Western brands. In 2022, South Korea became the world’s fourth largest exporter of cosmetics, after France and the United States, on par with Germany and ahead of Italy [1].

South Korean culture began to gain more visibility in the late 1990s, first through TV series and K-pop music. Hallyu (the Korean Wave) first hit China, then spread to Japan, and eventually reached the United States and Europe. The first Korean cosmetics, including the famous BB Creams, began to make a name for themselves outside of Asia in the early 2000s.

"In 2011, Garnier launched its first BB Cream, marking the beginning of K-beauty's influence on the development of Western brands. CC and DD Creams followed," explains Florence Bernardin, founder and CEO of Asia Cosme Lab agency. This trend continued with the launch of cushion foundations, which met with more moderate success in France. Korean brands such as Laneige and Dr. Jart+ have now established themselves long-term at Sephora, moving from the Korean corner of the store to regular shelves.

Today, the second wave of K-beauty’s popularity is driven by skincare and is fueled by the promotion of the Korean routine on social media, especially TikTok, where it is shared by influencers from all over the world. “The Korean government has invested heavily in promoting Korean culture and K-beauty in particular, beyond its borders,” explains Lilin Yang, founder of MiiN Cosmetics, a European network of thirty specialty stores. The company is celebrating its tenth anniversary this year, along with the opening of its first store in France.

South Korea is now a major cosmetics exporter, so much so that Japan now imports more Korean cosmetics than French ones, something that has never happened before, according to Florence Bernardin.

Fun and accessible preventive beauty

The concept of routine goes hand in hand with the K-beauty concept of layering. This method involves applying several different skincare products in ten steps to give the skin a hydrated, radiant and healthy look. "What I find really interesting about this method is that it aims to rebalance and hydrate the skin. The method is preventive rather than curative, which is still far too rarely the case in the Western world," explains Emma Gatineau, founder of Maison Kōsane, a marketplace specializing in Korean and Japanese cosmetics and offering personalized routines based on a skin diagnosis.

K-beauty is a fun and appealing beauty concept, with a constant flow of innovative beauty gestures. It appeals to a connected audience, between the ages of 18 and 35, and even older. And it is undoubtedly inspiring for Western beauty brands.

"Western consumers are very fond of sheet masks; today they are everywhere and no longer limited to Korean brands," says Anne Luong, founder of Korean Cosmetics, a network of three Parisian boutiques specializing in Korean cosmetics. "At Oh My Cream, we decided to offer a selection of three Korean sheet masks, an area where Korean brands excel. We chose three masks from the brands Abib, Beauty of Joseon and Torriden, which I discovered during a trip to Seoul," adds Fanny Morel, communications manager at Oh My Cream.

The daily sunscreen, a staple of the Korean skincare routine, has been very popular in France for the past two years. "We launched Beauty of Joseon sunscreen at the same time as our sheet masks. In July, it was one of Oh My Cream's two best sellers, with 297 units sold per week, a figure that is on par with our Oh My Cream Skincare plumping cream, one of our best sellers," Fanny Morel continues, pleased.

"Toners are also a staple in Korean beauty. At Maison Kōsane, we've already seen a lot of interest in toner pads: cotton pads soaked in lotion and coming in a packaging. It's already a big hit here," explains Emma Gatineau.

K-beauty is also characterized by the use of specific ingredients such as Centella asiatica, tea tree, bakuchiol, collagen and niacinamide. In Korea, consumers are very well informed about ingredients, a trend that is also developing in Europe, especially in France, where people are increasingly interested in the composition of products. "However, it is mainly K-beauty's innovative textures, minimalist packaging and affordable prices that contribute to its success in Western markets," explains Florence Bernardin.

Pharmacies, retail, beauty salons

In France, pharmacies are emerging as an important channel for Korean cosmetics. Brands like Torriden, which officially launched its products in France on October 14, are betting on pharmacies and beauty salons to expand.

Pharmacie Lariboisière, in the 9th arrondissement of Paris, has made these products one of its specialties. By establishing itself in this channel, K-beauty brands position themselves alongside major dermocosmetic brands and definitively place them in the world of reliable skincare products.

Meanwhile, retailer Oh My Cream, following the success of its sheet masks, will introduce two new skincare ranges from the Torriden brand in February 2025.

Maison Kōsane, for its part, has opened a Korean pop-up corner at Le Bon Marché from October 25 to December 31, showcasing a selection of products. “This collaboration raises awareness of Korean layering while inviting people to try the products,” explains Emma Gatineau. As part of this operation, SeeMy Cosmetics and Maison Kōsane also offered visitors an experience based on Korean facelift at the Institut du Bon Marché from November 4 to 10.

Market players have quickly identified another important aspect of the Korean skincare routine: in-salon treatments. In the future, the founders of Korean Cosmetics and MiiN Cosmetics intend to offer skincare protocols in their future French stores, as they already do in their two MiiN Cosmetics flagship stores in Madrid and Barcelona, ​​Spain. “Consumers’ purchasing power is higher in France than in Spain, so I think a MiiN Cosmetics flagship store in Paris, with treatment rooms, could be a great success. In Barcelona and Madrid, the loyalty level is high, as the results after the treatment are visible, and we know today that this is one of the concerns of customers when using in-salon treatments,” explains Lilin Yang.

Innovation is and remains an important factor in winning over consumers in the development of Korean cosmetics.

Florence Bernardin has also noted that people with darker skin types are increasingly attracted to Korean cosmetics. This large consumer base in France and the US could well open the door for K-beauty brands to a market that is still under-tapped and demonstrate their ability to cater to the needs of all skin types.

Emma Gatineau also sees growth potential for Korean hair care products, which are still not widely available in Europe and North America. "At Maison Kōsane, our ambition is to offer a comprehensive selection of Korean cosmetics, by first introducing hair care products to our online offering, before expanding into makeup later," she explains.

Finally, Lilin Yang, always on the lookout for new trends, has noted a boom in hydrogel masks in South Korea. These “sleeping masks 2.0” could well represent a new step in innovation, further strengthening the dynamic and ever-evolving appeal of this cosmetic trend.